This book was written up in so many places and discussed on so many podcasts, that I could not ignore it. I have never been all that interested in waves or stories or the sea (I live in Massachusetts and haven't even read "The Perfect Storm"), but with that much publicity I just couldn't ignore it. I am certainly glad that I took a chance on this non-fiction that reads more like a thriller than a historical and scientific piece.
Author Susan Casey takes on the subject of waves from scientific, historic, and athletic perspectives. She begins by describing famous, and some not so well known, shipwrecks and the waves that did them in. Casey then introduces the reader to a motley crew of surfers who devote their entire lives to riding the largest waves in the world. She follows them across the country and around the world as they search for the perfect wave and the perfect ride. They feel a connection to the ocean and its movements in a way that can only be described as a "wave-whisperer". Casey then dips into the science behind these waves and how climate change is making waves larger and more powerful. She attends symposiums to hear the most renowned scientists speak on the subject (even if she doesn't understand exactly what they are saying). In the end, she returns to the surfers who live amongst the waves and their constant ebb and flow.
First, I have to say that I enjoyed the time I spent reading this book. Casey makes it fast-paced and action-packed. While I found the surfers very intriguing, I was a bit disappointed that so much attention was given to them while the historic and scientific aspects seemed to play second fiddle. I think a fellow reviewer put it best when he stated that it is the Discovery Channel meets ESPN. Unfortunately, it seems that this book is 67% surfing and 33% historical/scientific. So while I enjoyed the read, this wasn't a book that left a lasting impression on me.
-DLP
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